14 Dec / A Multi-Culti Christmas and New Year To You!
When I was growing up, fragrant yellow coconut rice was right at home sitting next to the roast beef and/or honey-baked ham during Christmas dinner.
Every year, my mum would make nasi tumpeng, yellow coconut rice served with a smorgasbord of Indonesian dishes. Come to think of it, the roast beef and the Bûche de Noël were probably an afterthought!
Mum’s first task was to make rice imbued with the fragrance and flavor of coconut milk and turmeric (nasi kuning or yellow rice, my recipe here). She would then mound the rice into a cone atop a bed of banana leaves folded in an intricate pattern origami-style. This “mountain” represents the numerous mountains and volcanoes that dot the thousands of islands that make up the Indonesian archipelago.
Around the base of the cone, Mum would arrange various foods that she’d prepared over the past week in neat piles: shredded egg omelet, ayam goreng, (fried chicken), empal (sweet and spicy fried beef), teri kacang (anchovy with peanuts), tempe orek (fried tempe), perkedel kentang (potato cutlets), and anything else that she fancied.
The cone mimics the holy mountain, once revered as the abode of ancestors and gods, and its height symbolizes the greatness of Allah. The rice’s golden hue symbolizes prosperity and wealth. The food at the base of the cone symbolizes nature’s abundance.
Traditionally, this feast was created in thanksgiving for an abundant harvest or a blessing that a family has received. Today, nasi tumpeng is still widely served to celebrate any special occasion, be it a birthday, a marriage, or even a successful business venture.
Without a doubt, nasi tumpeng fit perfectly into our holiday celebrations, a time of thanksgiving and hope for a prosperous New Year.
Buoyed by my own memories, I asked my friends if they had any fusion holiday traditions to share. They sure did!
Filipino
According to Happy, Filipinos traditionally go to midnight mass on Christmas Eve. When they come out, the streets in the Philippines are usually lined with vendors selling tasty, freshly steamed treats. “People look forward to Christmas midnight mass because this is the only time the vendors sell these items this early in morning,” she says. The treats include “puto bongbong,” a purple rice flour treat steamed in a bamboo tube and served with shaved coconut; and “bibinka” is a rice flour and coconut milk treat, steamed in banana leaves and cooked in a clay pot.
“In America, it is common for families to continue cooking these treats during the holidays to remind them of the Philippines,” she explains.
Japanese
Hiroko spends two days preparing a traditional Japanese New Year’s Day feast for family and friends. “For New Year’s Day, each food has meaning… We always start with these three as the root,” she says, describing the following foods: “kuromame,” black beans, which represent the hardworking ethic of the Japanese people; “kazunoko,” salt-cured herring roe, the thousand eggs symbolizing a wish for a large and prosperous family, and “gomame,” a tiny fish that reflects growth and good luck.
Chinese
Every Christmas, Virginia’s family combines American traditions of turkey and ham along with their family tradition, Chinese Sticky rice, at the dinner table. “Inside the sticky rice, my parents would add … Chinese sausage, shiitake mushrooms, and dried shrimp,” she says. “For us, sticky rice represents family unity and togetherness — which is especially important now that my siblings and I live in different parts of the country.”
“Sticky rice is something I look forward to every year!” she says. (Find my recipe here.)
Taiwanese
Tina, a Taiwanese who grew up in Guam, remembers spending New Year’s Day around a hot pot. “It brings the entire family together over one pot of boiling soup with a variety of ingredients,” she says. “Moreover, it’s a hot soup dish and simply appropriate for the cold winter.”
Indonesian
For Titania, congee and Chinese wine were staples to ring in the New Year when she was growing up in Indonesia. “We put preserved salty plum in the wine to create a unique salty and sour (from the wine) taste and we’d toast with that at midnight,” she says. “Then we would eat up the chicken and pork “bubur” (Indonesian-style congee) that my mom made to warm us up.”
By blending old and new, adding a dash of east meets west, plus a sprinkle of creativity, we can all design our own family traditions for the holidays. But regardless of what is served on the table or what gifts are under the tree, remember that being together as a family and sharing each other’s company should be number one on everyone’s wish list.
(These quotes were originally published in a 2007 Northwest Asian Weekly article)
Do you have a fusion holiday tradition to share?
~~~
This post is part of #LetsLunch, our monthly Twitter-inspired food bloggers potluck. This month, it’s holiday celebrations around the world.
Don’t forget to check out the Let’s Lunchers’ creations below (the list will be constantly updated). And if you’d like to join Let’s Lunch, go to Twitter and post a message with the hashtag #LetsLunch.
Annabelle’s Pecan Slices at Glass of Fancy
Emma’s Latkes at Dreaming of Pots and Pans
Grace’s Persimmon Salad at Hapa Mama
Lucy’s Ham and Cheddar Scones at A Cook and Her Books
Joe’s Orange Honey Cake
All looks lovely. I love the Nasi tumpeng!
Thank you, John!
How very interesting – I love the symbolism of the nasi tumpeng. Any food tradition that incorporates origami is cool in my book.
Indonesian cooking involves quite a bit of leaf-folding. I really need to learn some techniques from my mom. Thanks for stopping by Lucy!
I LOVE this post! It’s fascinating to see how the Christmas meal has evolved in such delicious and vibrant ways. My Chinese-American family always makes sticky rice stuffing (with chasiu, boiled peanuts, chestnuts, though no longer any lap cheong now that we’re all heart conscious 🙂 And we always make congee with the leftover turkey carcass. Yum!
Ann, my publisher thought that sticky rice stuffing was a concoction his mom made up but he soon learned (from my book!) that it’s a common Chinese American holiday favorite! I think it’s an evolved version of sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves. Lap cheong is really fatty but it’s so tasty! But chasiu is a good substitute.
Love this post! So true we can take bits of our lives & heritage and make our own traditions. Thanks so much for sharing.
Great post– I love learning about different holiday traditions. I’ve had nasi tumpeng in Indonesia but your mum’s looks more magnificent. Happy holidays!
Thanks, Linda! Where and what occasion did you have nasi tumpeng? Do you have photo? I’d love to see!
Where on earth do you find these family photos?? And why do you have to make them so public???
Ha ha, I have a secret stash of them!
I’m first generation so our meals were not really fusion at all, just Chinese meals on American holidays! We didn’t even start celebrating Thanksgiving until a few years ago, when I was 15 or so. Last Thanksgiving I insisted we have pumpkin pie so in our photos there’s Chinese vegetables, fish, etc — and a bright orange pumpkin pie that I made. We’re still working on the fusion but to be honest I don’t mind having just Chinese either 🙂
Hi Edna, thanks for sharing your story. I don’t think it really matters what you have during the holidays just as long as you spend it with people you enjoy. How did you like the pumpkin pie? And whose recipe did you end up using? After 20 years in the US I’m still acquiring a taste for it even though it’s my husband’s favorite! Happy holidays and thanks for stopping by.
Hmm it appears like your blog ate my first comment (it
was super long) so I guess I’ll just sum it up what I had written and say, I’m thoroughly enjoying your blog.
I too am an aspiring blog writer but I’m still new to the whole thing. Do you have any points for newbie blog writers? I’d genuinely appreciate it.