Pickles and Tea Blog

When I was pregnant with Isaac, I was so ready for them. Like a tennis player light on her feet, ready to lunge and meet the furry, yellow ball head-on, I was expecting the cravings to arrive in rapid succession.

Would it be pickles of every shape, size, and hue? Or my favorite hawker dish, savory carrot cake (it’s actually made with radish)? Perhaps I’d want to smear my mom’s sambal terasi (chili with shrimp paste) on everything in sight from noodles to burgers, to steak. The anticipation, however, was all for naught. Five months in, despite a hearty appetite, I wasn’t craving nada. Heartburn soon set in, I lost my taste for food, and before I knew it, Isaac was born.

As it turns out, cravings are capricious, and like an unexpected guest, they show up as and when they please, and often overstay their welcome. This craving arrived with little fanfare but lingered until it was satisfied.

It all started with a conversation about rice flour. One thing led to another and my mind was soon drifting to a childhood dish I used to have almost every day during recess in the school tuck shop (aka canteen)–chee cheong fun (rice noodle rolls). Before I knew it, I just had to have it.

Chee cheong fun (“zhu chang fen” in Mandarin) is a very simple dish, usually eaten for breakfast or a snack. The first two characters in its name, “chee cheong,” means pig intestine, an unfortunate moniker in my opinion, but I can see how the rolls might resemble them in some people’s eyes. And “fun” refers to the rice noodles (sha ho fun) used to make them.

There are many variations of this dish. The version of my childhood comprises plain rice noodle rolls blanketed in a sweet sauce nutty with sesame oil, and topped with a sprinkling of sesame seeds. In Penang, the sauce is given savory depth with the addition of black shrimp paste (petis or haeko). Fried shallots, dried shrimp, and green onions may make an appearance, sometimes cooked into the rice noodle rolls or showered on top.

Here in the U.S., you’ll find the Cantonese version called “cheong fun” at dim sum restaurants. They are usually filled with fresh shrimp, barbecued pork, or my favorite, you tiao (fried dough sticks).

In all cases, chili paste is optional.

While the rice sheets are a blank canvas to soak up the sauce, its texture is important. They should be soft and springy, not dry and stiff. In Seattle, they are delivered fresh daily to local Asian market I frequent and I am content to buy them. Should you decide to bring a package home with you, try and eat it the day of, or at the very latest, the next day.

If you can’t find the rice noodle sheets, or if you prefer to be in full control, you can make them yourself using this recipe or this one. Do note that if you are gluten-free, the store-bought version will most likely contain wheat starch.

So why not have a go at it, even if just for the pleasure of boasting to your friends that you ate pig intestines.

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Chee Cheong Fun with Sweet Sauce

Truth be told, the sauce maketh this dish. And no two hawkers make their sauce the same way. I scoured the internet for various recipes for the sauce and after consulting here and here, I came up with two adaptations of the sweet sauce. The first uses sweet flour sauce (tian mian jiang) and Chinese sesame paste, two ingredients you may (try dan dan mian), or may not, ever use again. The other contains hoisin sauce, something you can easily slather onto a rack of ribs and barbecue on the grill. Both taste familiar and I’ve tasted similar versions served by some hawker somewhere in Singapore. The choice is yours.

Makes: 3 to 4 servings
Time: 10 minutes

1 (2-pound) package rice sheets (sha ho fun)
Sesame oil
Toasted sesame seeds

Sauce #1
Makes about 2/3 cup

2 tablespoons sweet flour sauce
2 tablespoons sesame paste
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup water

Sauce #2
Makes about 2/3 cup

1/2 cup hoisin sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1-1/2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 cup water

Gently unfold the rice sheet bundles  (my 2-pound package gave me 3 bundles) until each has only two layers and measures 12×10 inches. The sheets are very fragile so they will inevitably tear somewhere. Don’t worry about it.

Cut each 2-layered sheet into half (there will probably be a line or a tear [!] to guide you) and roll them up into cigars. Cut each roll crosswise into 1/2-inch thick pieces.

To make the sauce, mix all the ingredients together in a small microwavable bowl. Microwave on medium for 45 seconds to 1 minute and stir until all the sugar dissolves. Taste and adjust seasonings if necessary.

This dish is usually served at room temperature and you don’t have to do anything if they’re fresh. But if the rice sheets have been in the fridge or if you prefer to warm them up, place a damp paper towel over them and microwave on low for 1 minute. They should be soft and springy. Microwave in 30 second increments till the desired texture is reached.You can also steam them for about 3 to 4 minutes.

Pour the sauce over, drizzle with more sesame oil and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve immediately.

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